Step 4: Frame And Sheet The Walls For A Tall Barn And Deluxe Gable Roof Shed

This video is step 4: frame and sheet the walls. It’s applicable to both the tall barn and the deluxe gable shed plans.

See table 3 for the stud count number for each wall and cut enough studs for all 4 walls. Cut them to dimension “F” in table 2.

Crown the studs, which means look down the stud to see if it’s straight. If not turn the curved edge up so that it will face the outside of the wall.

The top and bottom plates are dimension “A” from table 2. We have already marked these for 16 inch on center as per figure 4.3, End wall framing diagram in your shed plans.

Line each stud up with it’s layout mark and put 2 16d nails in each joint.

This is a little device we made to straighten out the twisted wood. You can buy one commercially, or use a pipe wrench, or fabricate a temporary one out of wood scraps.

The upper top plate is dimension”E” from table 2. Then nail it into the lower top plate.

This gap is where the upper top plate of the side walls will overlap these end walls.

Which end you begin your sheeting will depend on the width of the shed. 6, 10, 14 ft walls aren’t symmetrical but 8, 12, 16 wide walls aren’t symmetrical.

Place the siding at the outside corner and even with the the top edge of the top plate, and nail in place.

Then move the frame to match the bottom edge of the siding and nail in place. This siding is very square so we will move the wooden frame to the siding and use it as our final gauge to make the walls square.

Nail the inside studs.

Set the top corner and common edge and nail in place.

Now move the frame so the top plate is even with the top edge of the siding. This squares the frame to the siding. now nail it in place.

You will repeat this procedure for each sheet of siding. This is the best way to make sure your walls are square and the main advantage of framing and sheeting the walls on the floor.

A nail gun rarely drives the nails consistently so you will have to check each nail and possibly drive it in flush with the siding. Our nail guns are old and worn so we make it a standard practice to check all nails.

We like to paint the walls laying flat. It’s easier and faster because you can just pour out some paint and roll it on. Just make sure you don’t get any on the floor.

Put some 2×4 blocks under the wall so you can get your fingers under. Raise the wall up and nail through the siding and into the floor frame. Then nail the bottom plate into the floor.

Cut the side wall top and bottom plates to dimension “D” from table 2 in your shed plans. Mark them at 16 or 24 inch on center as per figure 4.4 in your shed plans.

The procedure for the rest of the walls is pretty much the same. The main difference between the end walls and the side walls is the top plates and the spacing of the first stud in each wall, as detailed in Figures 4.3 and 4.4 of the shed plans.

Raise the wall and slide it firmly into the end wall. Make sure it’s tight at the top and bottom of the corner, and tight to the floor at the bottom edge. Then nail through the siding into the corner stud of the end wall, and through the siding into the floor frame.

Nail the corner studs together and through the bottom plate into the floor.

The final wall is exactly the same.

Here i see a really twisted board so I replaced it with a straight one.

Here I’m checking the camera view to make sure the corner will still be in view when we raise this wall.

This 3 1/2 inch overhang will overlap in the 3 1/2 inch gap on the end wall where the 2 top plates meet in the corner.