Single Slope Lean To Style Shed Plans Materials List

Because these single slope lean to style shed plans cover hundreds of different length, width, height & overhang combinations it’s not practical to make a materials list for each possibility. So I have created this worksheet.

Table 1, Materials list and cost estimate worksheet

Item
Size, description
Quantity
Price
S ub Total

FOUNDATION

A
1
Pressure treated skids

2
Concrete blocks

FLOOR

C
3
Rim joists

4
Joists

F
5
Sheeting

SLOPED WALL 1

C
6
Top and bottom plates

B
7
Wall studs

D
8
Siding

SLOPED WALL 2

C
6
Top and bottom plates

B
7
Wall studs

D
8
Siding

TALL WALL

C
6
Top and bottom plates

B
7
Studs

D
8
Siding

SHORT WALL

C
6
Top and bottom plates

B
7
Studs

D
8
Siding

DOOR

K
10
Hinges

L
11
Latch

B
12
Door frame

E
14
Trim

ROOF STRUCTURE

9
Rafters

9
Flying rafters

13
End boards

B
20
Rafter supports

16
Eave boards

15
Trim

G
17
Roof sheeting

TRIM

E
14
Corner

ROOF COVERING

H
18
Metal flashing

I
19
Felt paper

Roofing materials

OTHER

M
M
Fasteners

22
Paint

Total

1st column (letter) is materials notes
2nd column (number) is usage notes

Table 1, Materials notes:

A) PT means pressure treated lumber, which is designed for long term ground contact without rotting or being eaten by termites.

B) PC means pre cut 2x4x92 5/8 inch lumber. If your building supply store doesn’t carry them then buy regular 2x4x96″ lumber. I recommend using pre cuts because they are cheaper and often times better quality lumber. Unless you need full 8 ft or longer lumber.

C) If you can’t buy the length you need then buy the next longer size and cut it. This is often the case as many stores don’t carry 14 or 18 ft lengths.

D) Using 4×8 sheets of composite siding that comes with a factory primer will allow you to build this shed with the least cost and in the shortest amount of time. Composite siding holds paint better than real wood siding and speeds construction over using a plywood or OSB base and covering with strips of siding. It comes in various grades and thicknesses depending on your budget. The top of the line if you can afford it is called “Duratemp”. It is 1/2 to 5/8 inch plywood covered with a veneer of composite hard board. This offers the best of both worlds, strength and durability. Also “Smart Panel” offers a 1/2 – 5/8 inch thick OSB siding with a veneer of composite hard board which might be more readily available. Regular composite siding will still give you a long service life as long as you keep it painted properly. Most of them are rated for 20 or 25 years. And it’s a good choice for budget reasons. The only downside is that it’s not available in high humidity areas like Florida and Hawaii.

E) These plans are based on ripping 7/16 inch x 4′ x 8′ sheets of no groove (groove less) composite siding into 2 1/2 inch x 8 foot strips. One sheet will give you more than enough to trim the door and corners for this 8×8 shed. You don’t absolutely need a table saw but it’s the best way. You can do it with a circular saw but your cuts will not be so nice. No groove siding is siding without the normal grooves in it. You could use regular grooved siding but then you will have no control over where the grooves fall on your 2 1/2 inch strip. Or else you will have a lot of waste if you try to plan your cuts around the existing grooves in the normal siding. The no groove siding doesn’t need to closely match the other siding. It just needs to match the texture so that it matches when painted. So if necessary you can buy one brand of grooved siding and another brand of no groove siding in the event you can’t buy them both in the same brand. Or you can buy ready made trim boards but they are very expensive. As a last alternative you can 1×3 pine boards for the trim. But I strongly recommend against this because real wood will take lots of extra prep time and effort and still will not give you as nice a finish product as composite hard board trim.

F) CDX is the cheapest and roughest grade of plywood with cracks and knots in the surface. You can use a better grade for a nicer floor finish. You can use either normal square edge plywood or the more expensive tongue and groove especially designed for floors. If you want to save few dollars you can even use 1/2 inch OSB.

G) Organized Strand Board (OSB) for roof sheeting is less expensive than plywood. But you can use either.

H) Metal drip edge, “D” style, usually 10 ft lengths, galvanized or painted.

I) Felt paper, 15 or 30#.

K) Hinges, use large heavy duty strap hinges.

L) A typical gate latch will do in most cases.

M) Ask your building supply store for their estimate on the amount fasteners you’ll need. Just buy more then you think you need because they’re cheap and you can always use them on other projects. -3in deck screws for trusses and framing, -16d common nails for framing (if you don’t use screws), -8d galvanized box nails for siding and trim, -8d sinkers nails for floor and roof sheeting (but you can use 8d galvanized nails), -5 1/2in x 1/4in carriage bolts, nuts, washers for the hinges and latch.

Table 1, Usage notes:

1) 2-3 skids for 4, 6 and 8 ft wide sheds and 3-5 skids for 10 and 12 ft wide sheds. The will need to be the length of the shed, dimension “B”. It’s ok to put smaller lengths together to get the total length.

2) Use 16x16x4 concrete pads every 48 inches under every skid. If the ground isn’t level you can add additional 2x8x16 blocks to make up the gap between the 16x16x4 blocks and the skids.

3) 2 @ Dimension “B”, 2×4 for sheds 8 ft wide or less, 2×6 for sheds over 8 ft wide.

4) Dimension “A”, count from Table 3 depending on spacing, 2×4 for sheds 8 ft wide or less, 2×6 for sheds over 8 ft wide.

5) 3/4 in x4x8 sheets of plywood. Full sheets plus partial sheets depending on the width and length of the floor.

6) 2 for each wall, 2x4x Dimension “A” or dimension “B”

7) Count from table 3, length depends on wall height

8) Count is dimension “A” or “B” divided by 4 ft

9) Count from table 3, add 2 for flying rafters if building with full overhang, dimension “S”, 2×4 for sheds 8 ft wide or less, 2×6 for sheds over 8 ft wide

10) 3 large hinges for each door

11) 1 latch for single doors, plus 2 for top and bottom inside for double doors

12) 2 jack studs, 3 vertical uprights inner door frame, 4 for header and horizontal cross pieces, depending on the door width, a few more for double doors

13) 2 @ Dimension “B”, dimension “B” plus 24 inches for full overhang, same size wood as the rafters, ok to butt splice if you can’t find full length piece

14) 8 corner pieces, 6 door trim, more for wide or double doors, around the top if not using 3-6 in or full overhang option.

15) If using 4-6 inch overhang option, 2@ dimension “A”, 2 @ (dimension “B” plus 12 inches), use 2×4 for 4 inch overhang, 2×6 for 6 inch overhang.

Full overhang use 5 or 6 inch wide ripped from siding, around the facia, or use metal to match the roof

16) For full overhang cut strips from siding about 6 to 8 inches wide, the length of either side

17) 1/2 in x4x8 sheets of OSB or plywood. Full sheets plus partial sheets depending on the width and length of the roof.

18) Perimeter of the roof divided by the length of the drip edge, usually 10 ft. Or use flashing to match the metal roof.

19) 15# felt usually covers 400 sq.ft, 30# felt usually covers 200 sq.ft, use 1 or two layers

20) 2×4’s, probably can get these from cut offs

21) Metal: Length of the shed including the overhang divided by the width of the material

Rolled asphalt roofing: Sq.Ft of the roof divided by the materials coverage, usually 100 sq.ft. per roll, plus some tar for the seams

22) Coverage per the manufacturer. You will only need a pint or so for the trim, depending on the size of the shed. A few tubes of high quality caulk.

Table 3

Table 3 is located on page 80 of the Lean To style shed plans.