Step 5: Make The Door

This door construction method saves time and materials because you are using the materials cut out from the rough opening that would otherwise be thrown away..

You will make an outer frame which is built in the wall and the inner frame which is the actual door. You will frame and sheet these two simultaneously.

Later in step 7 you will cut the door out.

This is the most complicated part of building your shed. It’s not difficult, it’s just lots of details. But if you follow the steps closely you will have few if any problems.

There are 2 places where you can get in trouble here

  • Not properly locating your cut lines before you nail your siding in place.
  • Nailing the door to the bottom plate so that it will not open.

Otherwise just follow the steps for a strong and reliable door.

You can put the door in either the gable end wall or in a sidewall. The only difference is which king stud you will use.

Door on gable end

garden shed end doorFor a door in the gable end wall use a regular king stud.

Door on sidewall

storage shed side doorFor a door in a sidewall use a king stud with an angle on it.

Just remember to build with the short side of the angle up toward the siding. Otherwise there is no difference in the door construction.

Double doors

double 6ft side doorsIf you need doors wider than 60 inches then you should make double doors. Wide doors will be more of a maintenance problem because they are heavier and will sag more and sag sooner.

But if you make double doors you will have the additional width without the potential door sagging problem.

I will handle double doors in a separate post.

Motorcycle shed

If you plan on using your shed for motorcycle parking then you might want to make the door about 60 inches wide. You might even think about adding a second door to make the shed drive through.

Wider or narrower doors

These instructions will make a door with a rough opening width of 43 inches. This is usually big enough for most large items like wheelbarrows or lawnmowers.

To make the door wider or narrower just adjust the length of the door header to give your desired rough opening size then add or subtract the same amount to the horizontal cross pieces and horizontal trim pieces.

Door location

You can place the door anywhere on any of the walls you like. However I recommend that you place it on some increment of 12 inches. Then the location of the vertical uprights are covered by Figure 5b.

Otherwise just add an additional vertical upright to the inner door frame where the siding breaks.

Make the outer door frame

sandwiched door headerCut jack and king studs, spacers strips and header. Build a sandwiched door header by nailing a piece of scrap siding between two 2x4s.

This extra half inch makes the total width to 3 ½ inches, the same as the height of a 2×4.

door header jack and king studsNail the jack studs to the king studs then nail them to the sandwiched header.
outer door frameNail the outer door frame and the two outside studs to the top and bottom plates.

Make the inner door frame

spacers in door frameCut six) 3×3 inch spacers from the triangular scraps of siding you trimmed from the gable ends.

Put the spacers loosely inside the outer frame, 2 into both top corners and one along the side of each bottom corner. These are to keep the inside door frame from shifting until you get it nailed to the siding.

Measure and cut two cross pieces and three uprights. Lay all the pieces in the frame to check the fit.

assemble inner door frameRemove the five pieces, lay them on the floor and assemble with screws.

Measure and attach the two center cross pieces half way top to bottom..

Verify that this assembly lays flat and is not warped in any direction.

measure and record cut linesLay this door frame inside the wall frame with the spacers at the top and sides. It should fit nicely and not move around.

Install the truss and remember the ½ inch spacer below the collar beam.

Check for square by comparing diagonal measurements.

Important…

Measure and record the distance from the center of the middle stud to the inside edge of the rough opening in both directions.

These measurements will locate your vertical cut lines after the siding is nailed on.

do not nail the bottom plateLay the first piece of siding in place. Square it up to the center stud and check for proper overhang on the bottom.

Put a single nail in the door frame’s bottom cross piece. But don’t nail into the bottom plate because doing so will nail the door shut.

Put a single nail in the center door cross piece and top door cross piece, and in the top plate.

Put a nail at the outside ends of the top and bottom plates.

Important

mark cut line for top of doorMake a mark 1/2 inch above the bottom of the door header. This mark must be visible when the second piece of siding is installed. Lay the next piece of siding in place and put 4 nails in to match the nails in the other piece of siding.

Then put one nail into the end of the top and bottom plates. Snap a chalk line along the top and bottom plates and along the top of the truss where you will trim it.

Nail across the top plate only, do not nail the bottom plate at this time. And nail the outside studs and along the truss inside the chalk line.

Locate your cut lines

all of your cut linesPlace a pencil mark at the top and bottom of the siding half the rough opening width plus ½ inch in either direction (from the measure you took above just before you installed the first piece of siding).

Snap a chalk line on both these marks. These are your two vertical cut lines.

Measure from the top of the siding to the mark you made ½ inches above the bottom of the door header and transfer this measurement to both ends of the wall and snap a chalk line. This is your horizontal cut line for the top of the door.

Measure from the top of the siding to the middle of the door center cross piece as evidenced by the nail heads. Transfer these measurements to both sides of the wall and snap a chalk line.

Now you should have:

  • Two vertical chalk lines
  • Four horizontal chalk lines
  • Plus the chalk lines for the truss

Inner door trim

inside vertical trimMeasure and cut a piece of trim to fit between the two vertical cut lines at the top cut line. Place the top edge of this piece at the top cut line and nail it ¾ inch from its bottom edge and within two inches of each end.

Measure and cut two vertical pieces to run from the bottom of this piece to the bottom edge of the siding. Nail these ¾ inch from their inside edges from top to bottom to within two inches of the bottom plate chalk line.

horizontal trimMeasure and cut the last two horizontal trim pieces.

Position the middle piece of trim so that it’s centered on the chalk line and nail it down the middle.

Position the bottom piece of trim so the lower edge lies on the bottom plate chalk line and nail ¾ inches from its top edge.

Outer door trim

outside trimCut five spacers from scrap trim about 1 inch wide. Lay two of these spacers along the top trim piece and the other three on the outside of the first vertical piece of trim.

Lay a piece of trim horizontal along the top two spacers and another piece vertical along the other three spacers and pull them tight into the spacers.

Measure and cut the vertical piece of trim so that it extends between the bottom of the siding to 7/16 inch above the top edge of the top horizontal trim, as allowed by the spacer. Nail this in place.

Move the three spacers to the other vertical trim piece and measure, cut and install the same way. Then measure, cut and install a horizontal piece across the top of the two vertical pieces you just installed.

The door trim is now complete.

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3 column top

Includes dimensions for 45 shed sizes

3 column top

Option for a full size porch

  • 1.5/12 roof pitch
  • 2, 4-6, 12 inch overhang options
  • 45 sizes from 4×4 to 12×20
  • 4 height options from 60 inches to 12 ft
  • Any custom length, width or height
  • Single and double doors
  • Floor studs 16 inch O.C.
  • Wall studs 16 inch O.C.
  • Rafters 16 inch O.C.
  • Single top plates
  • Instructions and details to build a porch
  • Bike shed ideas
  • Frame for pre hung doors and windows

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3 column top

Includes 3/12, 4/12 & 5/12 roof pitches

3 column top

  • 3/12, 4/12, 5/12 roof pitch options
  • 2, 3 1/2, 5 1/2 inch overhang
  • 21 sizes from 8×4 to 12×20
  • Single and double doors
  • Single top plates
  • Wall studs and roof trusses 24 inch O.C.
  • One of the cheapest and easiest to build

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$7.95

3 column top

Includes 3/12, 6/12 & 12/12 roof pitches with full 12 inch overhang

3 column top

  • 3/12, 6/12 and 12/12 roof pitch options
  • 12 inch overhang
  • 31 sizes from 8×4 to 16×32
  • 8, 10, 12, 14 & 16 ft widths
  • Single and double doors
  • Floor studs 12 inch O.C.
  • Wall studs 16 inch O.C.
  • Roof trusses 16 inch O.C.
  • Double top plates
  • Includes 48 inch loft the length of the shed with an optional gable end door
  • Frame for pre hung doors and windows

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3 column top

Updated to include:
10 Larger sizes,
Overhang &
Crows Beak
Original
Also includes original version without overhang

  • Gambrel style barn roof
  • 12 inch overhang (option)
  • 31 sizes from 8×4 to 16×32
  • 8, 10, 12, 14 & 16 ft widths
  • Crows Beak (option)
  • Single and double doors
  • Floor studs 12 inch O.C.
  • Wall studs 16 inch O.C.
  • Roof trusses 16
    or 24 inch O.C.
  • Double top plates
  • Includes full width loft
  • Frame for pre hung doors and windows

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Includes Dimensions For All These Sizes

4×4 – 4×20
6×4 – 6×20
8×4 – 8×20 8×4 – 8×16 8×4 – 8×16 8×4 – 8×16
10×4 – 10×20 10×8 – 10×20 10×8 – 10×20 10×8 – 10×20
12×4 – 12×20 12×8 – 12×20 12×8 – 12×20 12×8 – 12×20
14×16 – 14×32 14×16 – 14×32
16×16 – 16×32 16×16 – 16×32

Features Of These Sheds

Similarities:
  • Floor covering: 3/4 inch plywood
  • Foundation: Pressure treated skids, concrete slab or floor less foundation
  • Wall materials: 4×8 sheets of hardboard siding or T-111
  • Door style: Out swinging shed door
  • Door location: Can be located any where on any wall
  • Door options: Single door, double door, wider or narrower door
  • Door options: Frame for pre-hung doors and windows
Differences:
  • Roof line: Single slope lean-to style
  • Roof pitch: 1.5/12
  • Roof covering: Rolled or metal
  • Overhang: 1-6 inch or 12 inch
  • Roof structure: 2×4 or 2×6 rafters
  • Floor joists: (8 wide) 2×4 at 16 inch O.C. (10/12 wide) 2×6 at 16 inch O.C.
  • Wall stud spacing: 2×4 at 16 inch O.C.
  • Wall framing: Single top and bottom plates with double corner studs
  • Roof line: Gable
  • Roof pitch: 3/12, 4/12, 5/12
  • Roof covering: Asphalt shingles
  • Roof structure: 2×4 trusses
  • Overhang: 2, 3 1/2, 5 1/2 inch
  • Floor joists: (8 wide) 2×4 at 16 inch O.C. (10/12 wide) 2×6 at 16 inch O.C.
  • Wall stud spacing: 2×4 at 24 inch O.C.
  • Wall framing: Single top and bottom plates with double corner studs
  • Roof line: Gable
  • Roof pitch: 6/12 or 12/12
  • Roof covering: Asphalt shingles
  • Roof structure: 2×4 trusses
  • Overhang: About 12 inchs
  • Floor joists: 2×6 at 12 inch O.C.
  • Wall stud spacing: 2×4 at 16 inch O.C.
  • Wall framing: Double top and single bottom plates with double corner studs
  • Roof line: Gambrel (barn style)
  • Roof pitch: Combination of 29/12 lower section, 4/12 upper section
  • Roof covering: Asphalt shingles
  • Roof structure: 2×4 trusses
  • Overhang: About 12 inches
  • Floor joists: 2×6 at 12 inch O.C.
  • Wall stud spacing: 2×4 at 16 inch O.C.
  • Wall framing: Double top and single bottom plates with double corner studs
General notes:

The biggest difference between these shed plans is the roof line. All sheds can be built with roof trusses and wall studs 16 or 24 inch O.C. and floor joists 12 or 16 inch O.C. and use 2 to 5 skids in the foundation. All of the sheds can be built taller or shorter and doors installed anywhere you like.

These are the most versatile plans because they offer so many size and height options.

And it has a low profile with no complicated trusses to build.

This is one of the easiest sheds to build because it uses a simple truss design and small but easy to build overhang options.

These sheds look great!

And the higher roof pitches offer additional overhead storage in an easy to build loft area.

The barn style shed is very tall and might block yours or your neighbors views.

However if you can manage the barn style shed looks great and provides lots of additional storage if you build the optional loft.

Dimensions

Overall outside height at peak, not including foundation. For foundation add 4″ for skids and 2″ to 4″ for concrete blocks.
Lowest profile option

  • 60 inches or less

Medium height option

  • All widths: 8′

Tall option

  • 6 ft wide: 9′ 2″
  • 8 ft wide: 9′ 5″
  • 10 ft wide: 9′ 10″
  • 12 ft wide: 10′ 1″

Extra tall option

  • Up to 12′ with 10′ minimum wall height
Standard 3/12 pitch

  • 8 ft wide: 8′
  • 10 ft wide: 8′ 3″
  • 12 ft wide: 8′ 6″

Standard 7ft sidewall height

  • 8 ft wide: 9′
  • 10 ft wide: 9′ 3″
  • 12 ft wide: 9′ 6″

Optional 8ft sidewall height
You can make this shed shorter if necessary by removing the same amount from all vertical cut dimensions.

12/12 pitch

  • 8 ft wide: 12′
  • 10 ft wide: 13′
  • 12 ft wide: 14′
  • 14 ft wide: 15′
  • 16 ft wide: 16′

6/12 pitch

  • 8 ft wide: 10′
  • 10 ft wide: 10.5′
  • 12 ft wide: 11′
  • 14 ft wide: 11.5′
  • 16 ft wide: 12′

These dimensions are for standard 8ft side wall height using optimal stud length.

  • 8 ft wide: 12′
  • 10 ft wide: 13′
  • 12 ft wide: 14′

These dimensions are for standard 8ft side wall height using optimal stud length.

Minimum inside wall height (headroom) under end of truss or rafter
Lowest profile option

  • 46 inches

Medium height option

  • 4 ft wide: 82-86″ *
  • 6 ft wide: 79-83″ *
  • 8 ft wide: 76-80″ *
  • 10 ft wide: 69-75″ *
  • 12 ft wide: 66-72″ *

* Depending on overhang option

Tall option

  • 4, 6 & 8 ft wide: 92″
  • 10 & 12 wide: 90″

Extra tall option

  • All widths: 9′ 4″ or more

Add 3 to 5 inches if you build on a concrete slab.

  • 76 1/2″ for standard 7ft side wall height
  • 88 1/2″ for optional 8ft side wall height

Add 3 to 5 inches if you build on a concrete slab.

  • 90″ for optimal side wall height
  • 95″ for maximum side wall height

Add 3 to 5 inches if you build on a concrete slab.

  • 90″ for optimal side wall height
  • 95″ for maximum side wall height

Add 3 to 5 inches if you build on a concrete slab.

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3 column middle

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Table of contents

Step by step instructions
  • General notes
  • Step 1: Foundation
  • Step 2: Floor, wood
  • Step 2a: Floor, concrete
  • Step 3: Sloped walls
  • Step 4: Tall and short walls
  • Step 5a: Prehung doors and windows
  • Step 5b: Single shed door
  • Step 5c: Double shed door
  • Step 5d: Open the shed door
  • Step 6: Frame and sheet the roof
  • Step 7: Trim
  • Step 8: Roof covering
  • Step 9: Paint and maintenance
  • Build a porch
  • Build a ramp
  • Bike sheds
  • How to contact me
  • Videos
  • Getting Started
  • Step 1: Foundation
  • Step 2: Floor
  • Step 3: Trusses
  • Step 4: Frame Walls
  • Step 5: Frame Door
  • Step 6: Raise Walls
  • Step 7: Finish Door
  • Step 8: Frame Roof
  • Step 9: Trim
  • Step 10: Shingle Roof
  • Maintenance
  • Build a ramp
  • How To Contact Me
  • General notes
  • Step 1: Foundation
  • Step 2: Floor, wood
  • Step 2a: Floor, concrete
  • Step 3: Trusses
  • Step 4: Walls
  • Step 5a: Prehung doors and windows
  • Step 5b: Single shed door
  • Step 5c: Double shed door
  • Step 5d: Open the shed door
  • Step 6: Frame and sheet the roof
  • Step 7: Trim
  • Step 8: Shingle the Roof
  • Step 9: Paint and maintenance
  • Build a loft
  • Build a ramp
  • How to contact me
  • General notes
  • Step 1: Foundation
  • Step 2: Floor, wood
  • Step 2a: Floor, concrete
  • Step 3: Trusses
  • Step 3a: Adding overhang
  • Step 3b: Adding a crows beak
  • Step 4: Walls
  • Step 5a: Prehung doors and windows
  • Step 5b: Single shed door
  • Step 5c: Double shed door
  • Step 5d: Open the shed door
  • Step 6: Frame and sheet the roof
  • Step 7: Trim
  • Step 8: Shingle the Roof
  • Step 9: Paint and maintenance
  • Build a loft
  • Build a ramp
  • How to contact me
Dimensions and Quantities Tables
  • Table 1: Materials list and cost estimate worksheet
  • Table 1: Notes
  • Table 2a: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed
  • Table 2a: Notes
  • Table 2b: Dimensions that vary with the height and overhang
  • Table 2b: Notes
  • Table 3: Number of pieces to cut
  • Table 4: Nailing Schedule
  • Table 5: Fraction to decimal converter
  • Table 1: Materials list and cost estimate worksheet
  • Table 2: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed
  • Table 3: Number of pieces to cut
  • Table 1: Materials list and cost estimate worksheet for 8×4 through 12×20
  • Table 1a: Materials list and cost estimate worksheet for 14×16 through 16×32
  • Table 1: Notes
  • Table 1a: Notes
  • Table 2: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed
  • Table 2: Notes
  • Table 3: Number of pieces to cut
  • Table 4: Nailing Schedule
  • Table 5: Truss dimensions 6/12 & 12/12 pitch
  • Table 5: Notes
  • Table 1: Materials list and cost estimate worksheet
  • Table 2: Dimensions that vary with the length and width of the shed
  • Table 3: Number of pieces to cut
  • Table 4: Nailing Schedule
Building Details and Figures
  • Figure 1.1, Skid spacing
  • Figure 1.2, Concrete block spacing
  • Figure 2.1, Floor dimensions
  • Figure 2.2, Rim joist splice for floor over 20ft
  • Figure 2.3, Floor frame complete
  • Figure 3.1, Sloped wall dimensions
  • Figure 3.2, Tall wall dimensions
  • Figure 3.3, Short wall dimensions
  • Figure 3.4, Rafter cut template
  • Figure 3.5, Wall framing diagram
  • Figure 3.6, Sloped wall framing layout for 6 & 10 ft wide sheds
  • Figure 3.7, Sloped wall framing layout for 4, 8 & 12 ft wide sheds
  • Figure 4.1, Tall and short wall framing layout for 6, 10, 14 & 18 ft length sheds
  • Figure 4.2, Tall and short wall framing layout for 4, 8, 12, 16 & 20 ft length sheds
  • Figure 4.3, Top plate spacing detail for tall and short walls
  • Figure 4.4, Blocking required for sheds that are 8 ft or more at the short wall
  • Figure 5a, Frame for prehung doors and windows
  • Figure 5b.1, Outer door frame
  • Figure 5b.2, Inner door frame
  • Figure 5b.3, Complete single door frame
  • Figure 5b.4, Nailing sequence
  • Figure 5b.5, Chalk lines, cut lines
  • Figure 5b.6, Inner door trim
  • Figure 5b.7, Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer trim
  • Figure 5c.1, Inner door uprights, siding breaks, and cripple stud spacing
  • Figure 5c.2, Inner door spacers and uprights
  • Figure 5c.3, Door trim spacing and underlying cut lines
  • Figure 5c.4, Complete door trim
  • Figure 6.1, 1-6 inch overhang combinations
  • Figure 6.2, Full overhang combinations
  • Figure 6.3, 1-6 inch overhang detail before trim boards
  • Figure 6.4, Side view 1-2 inch overhang details
  • Figure 6.5, Side view 4-6 inch overhang with trim boards
  • Figure 6.6, Full overhang detail
  • Figure 6.7, Full overhang showing bird boards between rafters
  • Figure 6.8, Full overhang top view
  • Figure 6.9, Full overhang showing rafter support cut-outs and spacing
  • Figure 7.1, Porch side view
  • Figure 7.2, Porch components
  • Figure 7.3, Porch front view
  • Figure 8.1, Compact vertical bike shed
  • Figure 8.2, Interior dimensions of my original compact bike shed
  • Figure 8.3, Free standing 4×8 vertical bike shed
  • Figure 8.4, Flush fit 4×8 vertical bike shed
  • Figure 8.5, Interior dimensions for a 4×8 vertical bike shed
  • Figure 8.6, Top view showing clearance and fit for large bikes
  • Figure 8.7, 4×8 Gable roof vertical bike shed
  • Figure 8.8, Low profile bike shed
  • Figure 8.9, End view and trim details
  • Figure 8.10, Small door framing details
  • Figure 8.11, Interior dimensions for 96 inch long low profile bike shed
  • Figure 8.12, Interior dimensions for 72 inch long low profile bike shed
  • Figure 1: Detailed view of framing
  • Figure 2: Floor dimensions and layout
  • Figure 3: Simple jig, truss components
  • Figure 4a: Gable end wall layout showing stud spacing and bottom siding overhang
  • Figure 4b: Front cross section showing 14 degree angle on sidewall studs
  • Figure 4c: sidewall stud spacer detail
  • Figure 4d: Sidewall layout showing stud spacing and siding overhang
  • Figure 5a: Outer door frame including sandwiched header
  • Figure 5b: Inner door frame
  • Figure 5c: Nailing sequence
  • Figure 5d: Chalk lines
  • Figure 5e: Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer door trim
  • Figure 6: Wall dimensions and layout
  • Figure 7: First router cut
  • Figure 8: Sidewall cross section with truss layout
  • Figure 8a: Sidewall cross section with optional overhang
  • Figure 9: Trim
  • Figure 1.1, Skid spacing
  • Figure 1.2, Concrete block spacing
  • Figure 2.1, Floor dimensions
  • Figure 2.2, Rim joist splice for floor over 20ft
  • Figure 2.3, Floor frame complete
  • Figure 3.1, Truss dimensions
  • Figure 3.2, Truss jig
  • Figure 3.3, Extra braces for 14 & 16 wide trusses
  • Figure 3.4, Finished truss comparison… 6/12 vs 12/12 pitch
  • Figure 3.5, Gable end blocking
  • Figure 3.6, Frame a loft door into the gable end
  • Figure 3.7, Template for 6/12 pitch
  • Figure 4.1, Wall dimensions
  • Figure 4.2, Wall layout
  • Figure 4.3, End wall framing
  • Figure 4.4, Side wall framing
  • Figure 5a, Frame for prehung doors and windows
  • Figure 5b.1, Outer door frame
  • Figure 5b.2, Inner door frame
  • Figure 5b.3, Complete single door frame
  • Figure 5b.4, Nailing sequence
  • Figure 5b.5, Chalk lines, cut lines
  • Figure 5b.6, Inner door trim
  • Figure 5b.7, Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer trim
  • Figure 5c.1, Inner door uprights, siding breaks, and cripple stud spacing
  • Figure 5c.2, Inner door spacers and uprights
  • Figure 5c.3, Door trim spacing and underlying cut lines
  • Figure 5c.4, Complete door trim
  • Figure 8.1, Roof framing details
  • Figure 1.1, Skid spacing
  • Figure 1.2, Concrete block spacing
  • Figure 2.1, Floor dimensions
  • Figure 2.2, Rim joist splice for floor over 20ft
  • Figure 2.3, Floor frame complete
  • Figure 3.1, Truss dimensions
  • Figure 3.2, Truss jig
  • Figure 3.3, Gambrel end framing
  • Figure 3.4, Overhang details
  • Figure 3.5, Truss comparison
  • Figure 3.6, Crows beak dimensions
  • Figure 3.7, Crows beak framing detail
  • Figure 3.8, Crows beak sheeting detail
  • Figure 4.1, Wall dimensions
  • Figure 4.2, Wall layout
  • Figure 4.3, End wall framing
  • Figure 4.4, Side wall framing
  • Figure 5a, Frame for prehung doors and windows
  • Figure 5b.1, Outer door frame
  • Figure 5b.2, Inner door frame
  • Figure 5b.3, Complete single door frame
  • Figure 5b.4, Nailing sequence
  • Figure 5b.5, Chalk lines, cut lines
  • Figure 5b.6, Inner door trim
  • Figure 5b.7, Complete door trim showing 7/16 inch gap between inner and outer trim
  • Figure 5c.1, Inner door uprights, siding breaks, and cripple stud spacing
  • Figure 5c.2, Inner door spacers and uprights
  • Figure 5c.3, Door trim spacing and underlying cut lines
  • Figure 5c.4, Complete door trim
  • Figure 8.1, Roof framing details
Detailed Dimensions Diagrams
  • 4 ft wide, 60 inch (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 4 ft wide, 72 inch (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 4 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 4 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, full overhang
  • 6 ft wide, 72 inch (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 6 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 6 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, full overhang
  • 6 ft wide, 8 ft (short) wall height, full overhang
  • 8 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 8 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, full overhang
  • 8 ft wide, 8 ft (short) wall height, full overhang
  • 10 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 10 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, full overhang
  • 10 ft wide, 8 ft (short) wall height, full overhang
  • 10 ft wide, 10 ft (short) wall height, full overhang
  • 12 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, 1-6 inch overhang
  • 12 ft wide, 8 ft (tall) wall height, full overhang
  • 12 ft wide, 8 ft (short) wall height, full overhang
  • 12 ft wide, 10 ft (short) wall height, full overhang
Options
  • Foundation for building a shed without a floor
  • Build on a concrete slab
  • Single or double shed doors
  • Frame for pre hung doors and windows
  • Attached porch
  • Customize your overhang dimensions
  • Screened eave ventilation
  • Foundation for building a shed without a floor
  • Build on a concrete slab
  • Single and double doors
  • 3/12, 4/12 and 5/12 roof pitch
  • 7 or 8ft side wall height
  • 2, 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang
  • Foundation for building a shed without a floor
  • Build on a concrete slab
  • Single or double shed doors
  • Frame for pre hung doors and windows
  • 4 ft wide loft
  • 6/12 or 12/12 roof pitch
  • Customize your overhang dimensions
  • Screened eave ventilation
  • Foundation for building a shed without a floor
  • Build on a concrete slab
  • 12 Inch (custom) overhang on all 4 sides
  • (Decorative) Crows Beak
  • Single or double shed doors
  • Frame for pre hung doors and windows
  • Full width loft
  • Screened eave ventilation
Total page count
Over 150 pages Over 100 pages Over 100 pages Over 100 pages

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3 column middle

Buy Now 3 column middle

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3 column bottom

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$7.95

3 column bottom

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$9.95

3 column bottom

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Can’t decide?
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Which Plans Should You Buy For Your New Shed Project?

Are you thinking about buying some shed plans but are confused and don’t know which ones to buy?

I will explain the similarities and difference between my 4 shed plans to help you in deciding which one is best for your new shed project.

The Main Differences Between These Plans Are

  • Roof line
  • Roof pitch
  • Roofing materials used
  • Eave overhang
  • Maximum length & width
  • And the degree of difficulty to build

Roof Line

The most obvious difference in these plans is the roof lines. 2 of the plans are gable style roof, 1 is barn style or gambrel roof line and one is the single slope, lean-to style or flat roof.

Roof Pitch

The regular gable shed plans have 3 roof pitch options; 3:12, 4:12 and 5:12. The deluxe shed plans also have 3 roof pitch options of 3:12, 6:12 and 12:12. So the deluxe plans are good if you need a steep pitch for snow or leave fall off.

The barn roof pitch is fixed for the upper and lower half of the roof. The lean style roof is fixed at 1.5:12. So it’s good in low clearance situations or where the overall heigh is an issue.

Roof Materials

All the shed plans except the lean to style use shingles on the roof. The advantage of shingles is that they’re relatively easy to install, economical and come in a wide variety of colors and textures and have a lifespan of up to 30 years. And you can easily match the roof on your home if necessary.

The lean to style sheds have too shallow of a roof pitch for shingles so they use either rolled mineral roofing or metal. Metal is a little more expensive but it’s fast and easy to install and has a life span of 50+ years.

Eave Overhang

There are 2 types of eave overhangs available in these plans. The simple 2-6 inch overhang and the full 12+ inch overhang. The 2 inch overhang is just the trim and a small overhang on the OSB. The 4 to 6 inch version is a 2×4 or 2×6 turned on edge.

The regular gable roof plans only offer the simple 2-6 inch overhang but the lean to and barn plans can be build with the either the 2-6 inch overhang or a full 12 inch overhang. The deluxe shed plans only offer the full 12 inch overhang.

Maximum Length

With the regular gable and the lean to style plans the longest shed you can build is 20 ft. This is because they use a single top plate and 20 feet is the longest 2×4 you can buy. And with the single top plate it can’t be spliced to make longer. If you want a shed thats over 20 ft long then you can use either the tall barn style plans or the deluxe plans. Both of these can go up to 32 ft in length. But you can make it as long as you like.

Maximum Width

The gable roof and lean to style plans are limited to 12 ft in width because they use a simple truss or rafter design. If you want to build over 12 ft wide then the tall barn and deluxe plans go up to 16 ft in width because they use a stronger but more complicated truss design.

Degree Of Difficulty To Build

The regular gable roof shed plans are the easiest and most economical to build because the walls are symmetrical and there are no complicated trusses to build or fancy overhang options. Trusses and overhang can are very time consuming in the shed building process.

The lean to sheds aren’t symmetrical but the rafters are strait without any cut outs and you can build it with either the simple 2-6 inch overhang or the more complicated full 12+ inch overhang.

Barn style trusses are easy to build but the added difficulty is working on the roof because of the increased pitch and greater overall working height. But you can build it with either overhang option.

The Deluxe shed is the most difficult to build because it doesn’t offer the simple overhang option, only the full 12 inch overhang. And the the trusses are more complicated because of the increased pitch and the 14 and 16 ft width options. And like the tall barn style shed, working on the deluxe roof is more difficult because of the steeper pitch and greater overall working height.

What They Have In Common

Now lets talk about what the plans have in common.

  • Floor
  • Wall Stud And Truss Spacing
  • Doors
  • Ramp
  • Estimate Cost To Build
  • Instant Download

Floor

All of the sheds can be built on either a wood floor or concrete slab. For wood floors I have recommend 2×4’s at 16 inch on center for floors up to 8 ft wide, and 2×6’s 16 inch on center for floor over 8 ft wide. But you can make a stronger floor by using 12 inch centers and or 2×8’s floor joists.

Wall Stud And Truss Spacing

I recommend 2×4’s at 16 inch on center in the walls but you can use 24 inch centers for smaller sheds. I recommend trusses and rafters to be placed at 24 inch on center for sheds up to 12 ft wide, and 16 inch centers for sheds over 12 ft wide.

Doors

All sheds include instructions to frame for prehung doors and windows, or to build your own single or double door in any width or height and in any location, or build multiple doors.

Ramp

All plans include instructions to build a ramp.

Estimate Cost To Build

All plans come with a materials list so you can calculate the cost to build it before you make that final commitment and start buying materials.

Instant Download

All plans are available in PDF format by instant download. When you click on the buy-now link you’ll be taken to a payment page. After paying you will almost instantly receive a download link in the email address associated with your paypal account or your credit card.

How Does The Download Process Work?

  • Within seconds of your purchase a download link will be sent to the email address associated with your PayPal account.
  • When you click on that link it will take you to a very simple page that says to “click here to download shed plans”.
  • When you click on the link it will open a download window. The window will give you the option to save or to open the file.
  • Click the save option and download the plans to your hard drive.
  • Then open the file with an PDF viewer. If you need a free PDF viewer you can find one here.

Sometimes your email and your browsers will not work properly together so you will have to cut the link from the email and paste it into a browser. That solves most of the issues.

But remember where you download the plans otherwise you will not be able to find them on your computer when you need them. Most people use the default download folder.

Buy Now

3 column middle

Buy Now 3 column middle

$11.95

3 column bottom

Buy Now 3 column bottom

$7.95

3 column bottom

Buy Now 3 column bottom

$9.95

3 column bottom

Buy Now 3 column bottom

$9.97

Can’t decide?
Then Buy All 4 Shed Plans For Only

Buy all 4 shed plans

$27.95

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